new bright r/c chargers easy battery upgrade

I searched the internet for instructions on how to modify these awesome little R/C cars from New Bright.
On various hobby forums, the response of most people is, \"buy a real hobby car for $50, otherwise enjoy it.
Also, don\'t expect too much from the $25.
New light, especially.
\"I also read that people are talking about Li-
The po batteries in these cars are dead after several charges.
They are not fast and powerful, but they are fun and you can turn this little toy into an R/C car with a battery that can last for a few hours with a slight modification.
For this project you need: you need your scissors for this step (
Or an exacto knife).
Wire cut along the artificial hood with patience.
The battery and USB cable will be filled at this opening.
If you do decide to cut the back, do not cut the artificial hinge.
I found cutting the back to help the hood open with less effort, but the plastic is cheap and thin.
So, if you plan to be rough with the R/C car, then I suggest you wait and see how you get the battery in and out of the opening.
Only a few screws fix the plastic body on the frame (3 to be exact).
Once you remove these, there is a screw on the motherboard (
Under the protective plastic cover)--
Remove this too.
Warning: lithium batteries do not like to be pushed off and will not tolerate short circuits.
Note: hot soldering iron is required for this step.
After the protective cover of the motherboard is removed, you will see a red battery.
You will want to disconnect three white clips with a wire.
Be gentle with them as they are not made of durable plastic and if you use too much force the wires may pull out of the plastic connector.
Next, pull the motherboard out and gently hold the battery so that the green side of the motherboard is facing you (
As shown in the figure).
You need to apply gentle pressure on the battery (
Like you tried to pull it off the blackboard).
Then heat the solder joints on each lead of the battery.
You can have someone else handle this part for you, or lean your finger against the motherboard as if you were trying to pinch the battery off the motherboard/push it away.
Then, alternately heat the solder joints on the battery leads.
You may notice that there is a little bit of lead when you heat solder, but only so far ---
Because the other lead has been welded in place.
Take your time to replace another thread and let another one come out a bit.
Continue to wait patiently and repeat if necessary until the battery is dead.
Note: lithium batteries do not like high temperature.
If the hand holding the battery feels warm or uncomfortable, take a break!
Don\'t overheat the battery, and don\'t rush.
Especially if you want to keep these tiny rechargeable batteries for another project.
Note: In the third photo, you noticed that I pointed to the motherboard and it looked as if something had been removed.
You are very observant!
I removed the white plastic coupler on this board because I wanted to use it (
Problems not solved in the end).
The USB cable you disconnected before has a long cord.
Once you have cut off the protective cover, you will notice the two inner wires.
There is plastic shielding on a Wire (
This is leading)
Another plastic case with no protection (this is the -lead).
This brings me a problem. . .
Initially I used strong glue to make sure
I didn\'t get a chance to touch each other, but when my nephew mishandled my R/C car, my leader was loose and I ended up taking the white plastic apart and potentially short-circuiting the wires (
As white plastic sticks to super glue).
This can be avoided if I weld properly for the first time, but I have been trying (
No display or discussion).
So, as long as you\'re sure and-
The wire does not cause a short circuit, and the attached USB wire is very useful for this project (
It\'s still installed on my other R/C car).
You need to peel off the green plastic
Lead and leave room for the next step.
It takes a little extra time for me, however, to gently put the bare wire back inside the green plastic sleeve and glue the crack in the sleeve, this is safe for both of the cars I have done this \"operation \".
Note: If you are using your own USB cable, you may need to check this instructures post.
White if you are using the USB cable that comes with the R/C car and-
Bare wires.
If you use your own USB then the power supply is red (+)and black (-).
You can see it in the picture
Clearly marked.
If you have any questions about what you are doing right, ask adults for help.
This could only be 3 v-
5 v ~ 1A DC, but again, the lithium battery is unstable if Short Circuit (i. e.
If the connection is not properly welded, etc. ).
Lithium is a kind of metal. it\'s not fun to put out metal fire. . .
Believe me, I was in the Navy at the time and we were dealing with metal fires.
Note: before proceeding with step 7, I suggest making sure the power switch is off now (
Otherwise, when you connect the battery, it sends real-time voltage through the motherboard before you are ready).
Reconnect the wires that were previously disconnected.
Note: I don\'t need to say that, but I want to make sure that the USB is not reconnected to the original power outlet.
Only the front connector and the rear motor are connected at the rear.
The picture shows that there is a hole on the motherboard that should be aligned with the screw hole on the R/C car frame (circled area).
If you haven\'t checked if the power switch is off yet, do so now.
When ready, connect the battery and turn on the power.
Please wait for step 8 before testing with the remote control.
If you have a battery in your remote control-
It was still working. -
Pour the R/C car (
Tires in air).
Keep pressing the button on the remote to make sure the tires work.
Test left and right controls to make sure the front wheels can turn forward and back.
Great if all goes well!
You\'re almost done!
If it doesn\'t work, remove the battery from the remote and put it back in place and press it twice forward (
This will force the remote to \"find\" the transmitter signal for the motherboard).
No need to turn off the R/C car to reset the remote control (
Two remote controls can connect a car-
Fun with family).
If still not working, please turn off the vehicle and make sure the battery you are using is charged (i. e.
Insert it into the phone to see if it charges the phone).
If it supplies power to another device, plug it back into the vehicle and re-power the vehicle.
Remove the battery from the remote control, put it back in place, press it forward and backward twice.
If this still doesn\'t work, please go back to the steps and check the picture and compare the welding work to the picture: the USB cable is made of thin copper wire (in most cases)
Copper can withstand bending. . . for a time.
Since you will often move the cable for charging when installing and removing the battery pack, it is recommended to make a small cut on the motherboard cover.
You can skip this step if you wish, but if you plan to keep this R/C car for a while without service, I suggest you \"surf\" a little.
If you want an extra protective layer, you can use hot glue to seal the motherboard case.
However, it should be noted that this R/C car is not designed for water crossing.
The motor is not sealed and the motherboard is not sealed.
There were some holes on the previous USB case and you also need to seal with hot glue.
Now that you \'ve re-installed the lid on the motherboard, it\'s time to get things tidy!
If you have a lot of extra cables, you can wrap it up and store it in your body.
There is enough space inside.
When ready, replace the plastic body cover and plug the USB into the hood--
As shown in the second picture. You\'re all set! ! !
You can see that even if my battery is long, it fits well inside the body.
You may have a battery of a different size or shape, and your experience may vary depending on the battery, but you have gone from 3. 2v .
3A battery to 5 v ~ 1A battery! ! ! Congrats!
Now, the new bright R/C racing car (
Or its body)
The battery is bigger and the power is bigger.
Note: I have not tested any battery that offers 5 v 2A but I have been using this 1A battery and it can run 4-
6 hours between charges.
It\'s a 3Ah Battery, but less than 5 watts per hour if you separate it!
I hope this statement is helpful.
I went through the Internet before my own R/C car was \"running\" but didn\'t find any useful information.
So, if you\'re on a tight budget like I am, but like patching, there\'s time and tools ---
You can have a good time with this project.